How to Measure for a New Appliance Before You Buy

A checklist for measuring the space, doorways and services before buying a washing machine, fridge or oven, so the new appliance actually fits.

Buying an appliance that does not fit is an expensive and irritating mistake. It is usually not the space itself that causes trouble, but the things around it: door swing, hoses, plinths and the route into the house. This guide walks through measuring so the new appliance goes in first time.

Tools you need

A tape measure, a notepad or phone, and a helper for long measurements. A spirit level is useful for checking floors and worktops.

Measure the space

Width, height and depth

Measure each at more than one point, since walls and cabinets are rarely perfectly square.

1. Width. Measure at the front, middle and back of the gap. Use the smallest figure.
2. Height. Measure from the floor to the underside of the worktop, at the front and back. Note whether the plinth is removable.
3. Depth. Measure from the wall to the front of adjacent units, allowing for skirting boards and pipes.

Add allowances

The appliance's published dimensions rarely include everything. Allow roughly:

• A few centimetres behind for hoses, cables and plugs, more for waste fittings.
• A small gap at the sides for vibration and ease of sliding in.
• Extra depth for door handles and a door that opens fully.

Check the manufacturer's installation instructions, which usually give the minimum recess.

Measure the route

Appliances need to travel through the home.

• Width of the front door, hallways and internal doors, measured at the narrowest point, including handles.
• Corners and stairs, particularly for tall fridge-freezers.
• Lift dimensions if you live in a flat.
• Any steps or kerbs outside the property.

Large appliances can often be tilted or have doors removed, but this takes time, so tell the delivery team in advance.

Check services

If any of those are missing, add the cost into your budget. Our washing machine installation cost guide gives typical ranges.

Special cases

Built-in appliances

For integrated or built-in models, measure the cabinet opening exactly and compare with the appliance's recess dimensions, not its external size. Our guide to integrated and freestanding appliances goes into this in more detail.

Fridges and freezers

Allow clearance for door opening, hinges and ventilation. A door that hits a wall or island at 90 degrees may not let you pull out drawers. Check which way it hinges and whether the hinge is reversible.

Ovens and hobs

Measure the cut-out and the depth of the carcass. Hobs also need clearance underneath and from nearby walls and units, as set out in the manual.

Write it down

Record your measurements in a single note with photos of the space. Keep it with you when shopping, and compare it with the dimension chart for every model you consider. If a fitter will be involved, send them the same note, and you can include it when requesting offers on Compito.

Common mistakes

• Measuring only one point of a wall that is not straight.
• Forgetting the plinth or skirting board.
• Ignoring door swing and handle projection.
• Measuring the space but not the route in.
• Relying on old appliance dimensions that were not accurate.

A worked example

Your integrated dishwasher space measures 598 mm wide at the front, 600 mm in the middle and 596 mm at the back, 820 mm high at the front and 815 mm at the back, and 560 mm to the front of the adjacent units. The smallest width and height are what count. A model that needs a minimum recess of 600 mm would not go in without alteration, whereas one rated for 596 mm or more would. The few millimetres of variation can decide whether a delivery succeeds, so write down the lowest figure at each dimension.

Common measuring errors in more detail

• Measuring to the wall rather than the pipes. A boxed-in pipe may reduce usable depth.
• Forgetting the door projection. A fridge door may need 90 degrees of swing and extra clearance for the handle.
• Skipping the diagonal of the opening. On a slightly twisted cabinet frame, the diagonal measurement explains why a snug fit still will not slide in.
• Using the floor height of the old appliance. New floor finishes or thicker flooring can reduce clearance.

Edge cases

• Flats with lifts or communal stairs: check the building rules for delivery times and whether protective covering is required.
• Older homes: narrow doorways and winding stairs are common. Measure diagonally for tall items.
• Rented homes: ask before removing a door or unit panel to get an appliance in.
• Replacing a cooker with a hob and oven: the cut-out sizes and the electrical supply may differ, so the change can involve more than a simple swap.

Share the measurements

When you request offers for fitting, include the measurements and a photo of the gap. A fitter can then say quickly whether any adjustment is needed. If anything involves gas connections, only a Gas Safe registered engineer should fit or move the appliance, and fixed electrical work needs a registered electrician.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need to measure the old appliance?

It helps as a starting point, but measure the space itself, because new models may differ.

How much gap should I leave around a fridge?

Follow the manufacturer's instructions. A small clearance at the sides and top helps airflow, and the back usually needs a few centimetres.

What if the appliance is slightly too big?

Do not force it in. Look for a different model, or ask a fitter whether the cabinet can be adjusted safely.

Should I check the delivery route too?

Yes. Many failed deliveries are caused by doors and corners rather than the final space.

Do measurements differ between brands for the same capacity?

Yes. Capacity does not equal size, so check the actual width, height and depth of every model rather than assuming a standard dimension.

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