Washing Machine Not Draining: Causes and Fixes
Step-by-step checks for a washing machine that will not drain or leaves water in the drum, from filter and hose problems to when to call an engineer.
A washing machine full of water is alarming, but the cause is often simple and you can check several things safely yourself. Work through them in order, from easiest to most involved. Always unplug the machine first, because you will be working near water.
Safety first
- Switch off and unplug at the socket.
- Put towels and a shallow tray down. More water will come out than you expect.
- Do not force a locked door. Some machines have a lock that releases only when drained.
Quick checks
1. Check the programme
Some cycles, such as delicates, hold water or finish with a rinse hold, and a machine may be paused. Select a drain or spin programme and see whether it empties. Also check that an extra rinse hold or a night cycle option has not been selected.
2. Look at the waste hose
A kinked or crushed hose behind the machine is common. Pull the machine out carefully and check that the hose is not trapped. Straighten it and look at the height of the outlet. Check that the hose is not pushed too far onto the spigot, which can block the flow.
3. Clean the drain filter
This is the most frequent cause. Most machines have a small filter behind a flap at the bottom front.
- Place a tray and towels under the flap.
- Open the flap and, if there is one, use the emergency drain hose to let the water out slowly.
- Unscrew the filter and clean out lint, coins, hair pins and sock fragments.
- Check that the filter housing is clear, and look into it for debris near the pump impeller.
- Refit the filter firmly, because a loose one leaks.
4. Check the standpipe and trap
If the waste goes through a sink trap or standpipe, they can block with grease and soap residue. Run the sink tap and see whether it drains. A blocked trap often shows up as gurgling or water rising in the sink during the drain phase.
Deeper causes
| Symptom | Possible cause |
|---|---|
| Humming but no draining | Pump seized or blocked impeller |
| Silent, no drain | Pump failure or electrical fault |
| Error code on display | Sensor, pump or wiring issue |
| Drains slowly | Partial blockage or limescale |
| Drains, then re-fills | Siphoning due to hose set too low |
Pumps can fail from age or from debris. Replacing a pump is a common repair and typically a moderate cost, but costs vary with the model. See our guide to call-out fees for what to expect.
What not to do
- Do not reach into the pump area with sharp tools. You may damage the impeller.
- Do not run the machine repeatedly in the hope it fixes itself, as it may burn out the pump.
- Do not open electrical panels while plugged in.
When to call for help
If the filter is clean, the hose is clear and the machine still will not drain, it is time to call an engineer. Describe what you have checked, using our fault description guide. You can use Compito to send a request and compare offers from ID-verified local providers.
If the machine is old and the repair is costly, compare against replacement using the repair or replace rule of thumb.
Preventing it next time
Check pockets, use laundry bags for small items and clean the filter every month or two. A regular hot wash or a maintenance wash helps clear soap build-up. If you also notice a bad smell, our guide to musty washing machines is useful.
A worked example
A washing machine stops mid-cycle with the door locked and water in the drum. The owner unplugs it and places a baking tray under the filter flap. Opening the emergency hose releases about a bucketful of water. After unscrewing the filter, they find a hair grip, a button and a clump of lint wrapped around the impeller area. Cleaning it and refitting the filter firmly gets the machine draining again. The only cost was time and some towels. If the filter had been clean and the hose clear, the pump would have been the next suspect, and an engineer's help would make sense.
A tidy order of checks
- Programme and settings
- Hose kinks and height
- Drain filter
- Standpipe or sink trap
- Pump and electrics, which are for an engineer
Keeping this order stops you jumping straight to expensive guesses.
Common mistakes
- Opening the filter without a tray and flooding the floor.
- Forgetting to refit the filter tightly, which then leaks.
- Pulling the machine out so far that hoses detach.
- Assuming the pump has failed without checking the filter.
- Pouring drain unblocker into the machine, which can damage seals.
Edge cases
- Flats and shared drains: a blockage in a shared stack can show as slow draining. Tell your landlord or managing agent if the sink also gurgles.
- Rented homes: report a failed pump to the landlord if the machine is supplied.
- Integrated machines: reaching the filter or hose may need the plinth removed or the machine pulled out.
- Older homes: narrow waste pipes may struggle with high-volume discharge.
When to call a professional
If water is near the socket or the machine's cable, or you see wet electrical parts, switch off at the consumer unit before touching anything. A registered electrician should check the socket and flex before use. For pump replacement, an appliance engineer is the right choice.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get the door open when it is full of water?
Drain the machine using the emergency hose or filter, then wait for the door lock to release. Some models have a manual release cord near the filter.
Is it dangerous to open the filter?
Not if the machine is unplugged and you control the water with a tray and towels. The main risk is a wet floor.
Why does water come back into the drum?
A waste hose set too low can siphon water back, or the standpipe may be blocked. Check the hose height and the trap.
Could it be my plumbing?
Yes, if the sink or other fittings also drain slowly. A plumber can check the household waste.
Is it normal for a little water to stay in the drum?
A small amount in the seal fold or drum can be normal, but a pool covering the drum holes after a cycle is not.