Fixing a Wardrobe to the Wall: Why, Where and How

Why wardrobes should be secured to the wall, how to find the right fixing for your wall type, and the checks to make before you drill.

A wardrobe is a tall, narrow box that can become top-heavy when its upper shelves are full or a drawer is pulled out. Fixing it to the wall is a simple step that makes it much more stable, and for homes with children it is especially worthwhile. Here is how to approach it.

Why fix a wardrobe at all?

Wardrobes are built from thin chipboard and carry weight high up, where it makes them easiest to tip. Uneven floors, a door swung open, or a child climbing can shift the balance. A fixing to the wall stops the unit moving forward and also keeps it from shifting sideways on a slightly sprung floor.

Manufacturers often supply a bracket or strap and instruct that it be used. Treat that as a requirement, not an optional extra.

Find the right fixing

Know your wall

The correct plug and screw depend entirely on what is behind the surface:

  • Solid brick or block. Needs a masonry bit and a plug of the right size. A hammer-action drill is typical.
  • Plasterboard on studs. Ideally screw into a timber stud, or use a fixing designed for hollow walls.
  • Plasterboard on dot-and-dab. Hollow behind; a hollow-wall fixing is needed, rated for the load.
  • Timber stud. Wood screws directly into the stud, using a stud detector.
  • Lath and plaster in older homes. Fragile; take care and use fixings suitable for the wall.

Pipes and cables may run behind walls, so use a detector and avoid drilling near sockets, switches or likely routes.

Use what the unit is designed for

Use the bracket or strap supplied with the wardrobe where possible. If using different fixings, ensure they are rated for the load and suited to the material of the unit. Leave decisions about unusual walls to a competent person.

Preparing the position

  1. Place the wardrobe in its final position and level it.
  2. Mark where the fixing will go on the top rail or a rigid part of the frame, not through thin back panels alone.
  3. Check the wall for services and choose the drill point.
  4. Pull the unit away slightly if needed to drill.
  5. Drill, plug and fix the bracket to the wall first, then attach it to the wardrobe.

Checks after fixing

  • Gently pull the top of the unit; it should not tip or move.
  • Check doors still open and close freely.
  • Make sure the bracket is not carrying the weight of the unit, only restraining it.
  • Place heavier items low in the wardrobe, and lighter items high.

Moving a fixed wardrobe

When you move, release the fixings, patch the holes and re-fix in the new place. Do not drag a fixed wardrobe; the bracket will damage the frame and wall.

When to hire help

If you are uncertain about your wall type, worried about services or short of tools, a competent assembler can do the fixing as part of the build. State in your request that wall fixing is required and what the wall is, if known, so offers include it. Our article on anchoring bookcases and tall furniture covers similar principles, and sliding door wardrobe assembly explains the build order.

A simple method for a typical wardrobe

  1. Position the wardrobe where it will stand and check it sits flush against the wall.
  2. Use a detector for studs, pipes and cables, and mark the position on the wall.
  3. Mark through the bracket hole onto the wall, move the wardrobe away and drill the pilot hole.
  4. Fit the plug or hollow-wall fixing and screw the wall part of the bracket in place.
  5. Slide the wardrobe back and fix the bracket to the top rail or frame of the carcass.
  6. Give the top a gentle pull forward to check it is secure.

Allow roughly 15 to 30 minutes for a single wardrobe once the wall is checked.

Common mistakes

  • Fixing through the thin back panel only.
  • Ignoring skirting boards that stand the unit off the wall at the bottom.
  • Using brackets that are too short to reach the wall once the unit is in position.
  • Choosing a fixing in a hollow wall that is not rated for the load.
  • Drilling blind above a socket, where cables often run vertically.

Awkward situations

Sloping ceilings or alcoves can mean there is no top rail near the wall, so fit the bracket to the side panel instead if the manufacturer allows it. In a flat with thin partition walls, find a stud if possible, because hollow-wall fixings in a 12.5 mm board are only as strong as the plasterboard itself. In rentals, a landlord may agree to small bracket holes if you explain the safety reason; tenancy terms vary.

For the general principle across all tall furniture, see anchoring bookcases and tall furniture to walls. General information only; follow your wardrobe's manual.

Frequently asked questions

Do rented homes allow drilling?

Check your tenancy agreement and speak to the landlord, as fixings leave holes. Some landlords are happy for anti-tip fixings; others may have a preferred approach.

Is a freestanding wardrobe without fixings dangerous?

It is not inevitably dangerous, but stability decreases with height and load. Fixing reduces the risk, especially in children's rooms.

Can I use any screws from my toolbox?

Not safely. The fixing must suit both the wall and the furniture, and be rated for the load. Use the supplied hardware or ask a hardware shop for suitable ones.

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