When and How to Plant Spring Bulbs in the UK

A practical guide to planting daffodils, tulips, crocus and alliums in UK gardens, with timing, depth, drainage and pot planting tips.

Spring bulbs repay a small autumn effort with months of colour. The principles are simple, but timing, depth and drainage make the difference between a good display and a disappointing one.

When to plant

Plant most spring-flowering bulbs from September to November, once the soil has cooled a little.

• Daffodils, crocus, snowdrops and muscari: September to October.
• Hyacinths: October.
• Tulips: November, which helps reduce the risk of tulip fire disease.
• Alliums: September to October.

If you have missed the window, you can plant into December as long as the ground is not frozen, though flowering may be later or less strong.

Choosing bulbs

Buy firm, plump bulbs with no mould or soft spots. Larger bulbs generally give better flowers. Check the label for flowering time, height and sun requirements. Choose varieties to extend the season:

1. Late winter: snowdrops, winter aconites, early crocus.
2. Early spring: daffodils, scilla, chionodoxa.
3. Mid spring: tulips, hyacinths, fritillaries.
4. Late spring: alliums, late tulips.

Planting depth and spacing

A common rule is to plant bulbs at about two to three times their own height deep. In practice:

Plant with the pointed end upwards. If you are not sure which end is which, plant on its side; the shoot will find its way up.

Soil and drainage

Most bulbs need good drainage; they rot in waterlogged soil. On heavy clay, add grit or sharp sand to the planting hole or plant in raised beds. In very dry soil, mix in compost to retain some moisture. Sun is best for most bulbs, though many daffodils and snowdrops tolerate partial shade; for shady spots, see planting for shade.

Planting in borders

For a natural look, scatter bulbs gently and plant them where they land. Plant in groups of at least seven or nine for impact, rather than lines. Dig individual holes with a trowel or a bulb planter, or dig a larger hole and place several bulbs together.

Planting in grass

Daffodils, crocus and snowdrops can naturalise in lawns. Use a bulb planter to lift plugs of turf, drop in the bulb and replace the plug. Remember that you must leave the foliage uncut for around six weeks after flowering to feed the bulb, so plan mowing accordingly; see how often to mow your lawn.

Planting in pots

Bulbs in containers give instant colour on patios and doorsteps. Use a peat-free multipurpose compost with grit, ensure drainage holes are clear and plant bulbs close together in layers, often called lasagne planting. Place pots where they will not become waterlogged and give a little water in dry spells over winter.

Aftercare

• Water after planting if the weather is dry.
• Protect from squirrels and mice with a layer of mesh or chicken wire if they are a problem in your area.
• Deadhead after flowering, but leave the leaves until they turn yellow.
• Feed with a general fertiliser or bulb feed after flowering to help next year's display.
• Divide crowded clumps in summer once leaves have died back.

Working with a gardener

If you have a long border to plant or lawn naturalising to do, a gardener can speed things up. Share a brief with sizes, bulbs and the planting areas; our garden maintenance brief template can help. On Compito you can search by postcode, compare ID-verified local providers and send a request. See how it works.

Worked example: a mixed autumn planting

A household with a small front garden and a pot by the door plants about 100 bulbs in an afternoon in late October. Fifty daffodils go in a drift along the border at 15cm deep, twenty crocus are scattered in a patch of grass with a bulb planter, and ten tulips go into the pot in layers with compost and grit. The cost might be in the region of £25 to £50, depending on variety and quantity. By March the garden has colour for weeks, and the effort was one afternoon.

Planning for a long display

Common mistakes

• Planting too shallow, so bulbs flower weakly or lift.
• Using a single row instead of natural groups.
• Cutting foliage back too soon.
• Planting in a spot that stays waterlogged.
• Forgetting where bulbs are and digging them up later.

Special cases

• Heavy clay. Add grit and plant slightly shallower on the wettest soils.
• Shade. Snowdrops, bluebells from a reputable source and some daffodils cope better; see planting for shade.
• Rentals. Pots and containers keep your investment portable.
• Squirrels and mice. Mesh or deeper planting helps.

Mark the spot

Put a small label or a note in your phone showing where you planted. In summer, when foliage has gone, it prevents damage when you replant the border.

Frequently asked questions

Is it too late to plant bulbs in December?

Not necessarily. If the ground is workable, bulbs can still be planted, though flowering may be a little later. Tulips are often fine planted this late.

Why did my tulips not come back?

Many tulip varieties perform best in the first year and decline afterwards, especially in wet or shaded soil. Others, such as species tulips, are more perennial.

Do I need to lift bulbs after flowering?

Generally not, except for tender bulbs and some tulips in very wet gardens. Most can be left in the ground and divided every few years.

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