Draught-Proofing Costs in the UK: DIY and Handyman
Typical UK costs for draught-proofing doors, windows, letterboxes and loft hatches, comparing DIY materials with handyman labour and what pays back fastest.
Draught-proofing is often described as one of the cheapest ways to make a home feel warmer. The materials are inexpensive, and the labour is modest, but costs vary with how many openings you have, the age of the windows and whether you want a neat professional finish. This guide helps you budget realistically.
Materials: the DIY cost
Prices change, but in general, the materials are cheap relative to the benefit. As rough guides:
- Self-adhesive foam or rubber strip for door and window frames: a few pounds per roll, enough for a door or a couple of windows.
- Brush strip or threshold seal for the bottom of a door: from a few pounds to a little more for a good-quality fitted strip.
- Letterbox brush or flap: a few pounds.
- Keyhole cover: a pound or two.
- Sealant for frames and skirting: several pounds a tube.
- Loft hatch strip and insulation: a few pounds to modest sums.
- Secondary glazing film: a few pounds per window.
- Chimney balloon or cap: a modest cost.
For a whole house, DIY materials might add up to a modest sum, though the quality of the products affects how long they last.
Labour: what a handyman may charge
Handyman time is typically charged hourly or by the day, as covered in how much a handyman costs in the UK. A typical flat or small house could take a couple of hours to half a day; a larger home with many windows might take a day. Typical labour prices are around:
- One door and letterbox: £40 to £90
- A few windows: £50 to £120
- Whole-house draught-proofing: £150 to £350 depending on size
London and the South East are generally higher. Materials may be extra.
What affects the cost
- Number of openings. More doors and windows mean more time.
- Type of window. Sliding sashes and ornate period windows take more care than modern casements.
- Condition. Rotten frames or bowed doors need repairing before sealing.
- Access. High windows and awkward rooms add time.
- Product choice. A fitted brush-and-compression system costs more than cheap foam tape but lasts longer.
- Extras. Fitting new letterboxes, replacing handles or resealing outside frames add to the work. See how to fit a letterbox.
Is it worth it?
The savings depend on how leaky your home is, your fuel costs and your heating habits. A home with many gaps may become noticeably more comfortable, and you may be able to lower the thermostat slightly. Because the outlay is small, it tends to pay back faster than larger energy projects, but exact savings vary and are hard to predict for any individual home.
What not to seal
Do not block air bricks, trickle vents, extractor fans or ventilation that serves fuel-burning appliances. Combustion appliances need air, and rooms with moisture need extraction to avoid condensation and mould. If you are unsure about a gas appliance's ventilation, ask a Gas Safe registered engineer. See can a handyman do gas work?.
Getting best value
- Do the biggest leaks first: external doors, letterboxes, loft hatch and old windows.
- Ask the handyman to bring and use good-quality products, and compare with a DIY materials list.
- Combine with other jobs on the visit. See how to save money by batching handyman jobs.
- If you rent, ask your landlord first, since some changes alter the property; see handyman work in rented homes.
Doing it yourself first
If you want to see what is involved, how to draught-proof doors and windows goes through the process step by step. Many people do the simple strips themselves and call a handyman for sash windows or larger repairs.
Getting a quote
On Compito, you can search by postcode and send a request listing the doors and windows, with photos and the type of each. Compare offers from ID-verified local providers, ask questions by message, accept and pay online and leave a review afterwards.
A worked example: a three-bed semi
Take a typical semi-detached house with a front and back door, eight windows and a loft hatch. Doing the lot with decent compression strips, a door brush, a letterbox flap and a hatch seal might cost a typical £60 to £120 in materials if you do it yourself. A handyman visit for the same job could land around £150 to £350 in labour plus materials, depending on region and window type. Fitting cheap foam tape to the same openings would cost less up front but usually needs redoing sooner, so the cheapest option is not always the cheapest over three winters.
Prioritise by payback
If your budget is tight, work through the openings in this order:
- External doors, letterbox and keyholes, where the biggest draughts usually are.
- The loft hatch, which leaks warm air straight into the roof space.
- Windows on the windward side of the house.
- Gaps at skirting boards and floorboards in rooms you use most.
- Everything else as budget allows.
Older and period homes
Sash windows, timber floors and open chimneys are designed to breathe, so the approach is more careful. Brush strips on sashes are usually better than rigid compression seals, and a chimney that is in use must stay ventilated. If your property is listed or in a conservation area, check with the council before changing windows or doors. Do not seal ventilation that serves a fire or boiler.
Renting a flat
Most tenants can use removable products such as stick-on strips, letterbox brushes and keyhole covers without affecting the property, but ask your landlord before doing anything that alters frames or fixtures.
Frequently asked questions
Can draught-proofing cause damp?
If you seal ventilation, yes. Keep vents and extractors open and clear, and allow for ventilation in kitchens and bathrooms.
How long does it last?
Cheap strips last a season or two, while better products last several years. Check each autumn.
Do I need permission in a listed building?
Possibly, if the work affects historic fabric. Check with the local authority before altering windows or doors.