Drilling Into Tiles Without Cracking Them
How to drill into ceramic, porcelain and glass tiles cleanly, with the right drill bits, speed, tape tricks and fixings to avoid cracks and slips.
Tiles are hard on the surface and brittle underneath. A normal drill bit skids across the glaze, and too much force or speed makes a crack that runs across the tile. The good news is that, with the right bit, slow speed and a bit of preparation, drilling tiles is quite manageable.
Know what tile you have
- Ceramic wall tiles: the most common in bathrooms and kitchens; fairly easy with a tile bit.
- Porcelain: much harder and denser; needs a specialist porcelain or diamond bit.
- Natural stone: varies, but often needs a masonry bit and slow speed.
- Glass tiles: brittle and difficult; use glass-specific bits and lots of patience, or avoid drilling.
If you are unsure, try a tile bit on a spare or hidden tile first.
Choose the right bit
- Tile bits (spear-point): suitable for ceramic.
- Diamond-tipped or core bits: for porcelain and harder tiles, often used with water.
- Masonry bits: for the wall behind, once you have passed through the tile.
Avoid bits that are blunt, because they slide, heat up and chip.
Preparation
- Mark the position with a pencil or marker.
- Check for services. Pipes and cables run behind tiles too; see how to find studs, pipes and cables before drilling.
- Use masking tape in a cross over the mark. This stops the bit wandering and reduces chipping.
- Avoid edges. Stay away from tile edges and grout lines if possible, as these are more prone to cracking.
- Wear safety glasses and a dust mask. Tile fragments and dust are sharp and unpleasant.
Drilling technique
- Set the drill to low speed and switch hammer action off. Hammer action cracks tiles.
- Hold the bit at a right angle, and start with light pressure to make a small groove.
- Increase pressure slightly once the bit has bitten, while keeping the speed low.
- Keep the bit cool. For porcelain, add a few drops of water or use a wet sponge ring to reduce heat.
- Stop when you feel the bit break through the tile into the wall.
- Change to a masonry bit sized to the plug, and drill the wall to depth.
- Clear dust, insert the plug and fix.
If the bit slips
Stop, re-tape, and use a smaller pilot bit to establish a hole. A drill guide or a cork or plastic template can help keep things in place.
Fixings behind tiles
Walls behind tiles may be plasterboard, backer board, brick or block. Choose fixings to suit; wall plugs and fixings explained covers what to use. After fitting, put a dab of silicone sealant around the hole in wet areas to stop water getting in.
Alternatives to drilling
For light items, adhesive hooks and strips can work on clean, smooth tiles. In rented homes, this may be the easier route; see mounting and installing in rented homes. Another option is to drill through the grout line, which is softer and cheaper to repair, though the placement is restricted.
Mistakes to avoid
- Using hammer action on tiles.
- Pushing hard on a blunt bit.
- Drilling too close to the tile edge.
- Skipping the service check in a bathroom or kitchen.
- Not sealing the hole in a shower.
A worked example: a towel hook on bathroom tiles
You want a hook at 170 cm height on glazed ceramic tiles. Choose a spot in the middle of a tile rather than the edge or grout line, tape a cross of masking tape, and mark the drill point on the tape. Start with a small pilot at low speed using a tile or spear-point bit, with no hammer action, and keep the bit cool with a damp sponge or short pauses. Once through the glaze, continue slowly through the body, then swap to a masonry bit for the wall behind if needed. Fit the plug, check there are no pipes behind, and fix the hook.
Tile type quick guide
| Tile type | Approach |
|---|---|
| Ceramic wall tile | Spear-point or tile bit, low speed |
| Porcelain | Diamond-tipped bit, plenty of patience |
| Glass | Specialist glass bit, light pressure, coolant |
| Natural stone | Masonry or diamond bit, take care at edges |
Common mistakes
- Using hammer action on tiles.
- Drilling too close to the tile edge.
- Pushing hard once the bit bites through the glaze.
- Drilling into pipes in a bathroom wall; they often run vertically from taps and showers.
Where is the safe zone?
Avoid areas right behind showers, taps and radiators, and look at the wall layout from the other side where possible. A cable and pipe detector helps. See hanging a mirror in a bathroom for how drilling and sealing combine in a damp room.
Frequently asked questions
Can I drill porcelain tiles with a normal drill?
Yes, with the right diamond or porcelain bit and slow speed. A standard masonry or tile bit may struggle and overheat.
Should I use water when drilling tiles?
For hard tiles like porcelain, a little water keeps the bit cool and extends its life. Keep water away from the drill body and any electrical parts.
What if the tile cracks?
A cracked tile can be replaced, though matching and removing it is fiddly. Prevention is easier: slow speed, no hammer action and tape.