How to Fit a Curtain Pole: Height, Brackets and Fixings
Fit a curtain pole properly with advice on height, width, bracket spacing, centre supports and the right fixings for lintels, brick and plasterboard.
A curtain pole carries more than the weight of the curtains. Every time you pull them, tug on a ring or lean on the pole while hanging them, the brackets take the force. That is why curtain poles sag or pull away from the wall so often. Getting height, bracket positions and fixings right matters more than the pole itself.
Decide the height and width
Height
Fit the pole higher than the window frame, typically 10 to 15 cm above it, or close to the ceiling for a taller look. If there is a deep lintel above the window, check what lies behind the plaster before drilling.
Width
Extend the pole beyond each side of the window by around 15 to 25 cm. This lets the curtains stack back and expose more glass. Check there is room for the finials and for any nearby walls or furniture.
Plan your brackets
Most poles need a bracket at each end, and a centre bracket as soon as the pole is wider than about 1.2 to 1.5 metres, or heavy curtains are used. Longer poles may need several. Follow the pole's instructions, and add more rather than fewer for heavy, lined curtains.
Check the wall
Above windows you commonly find:
- Lintels: concrete, steel or timber beams that carry the wall. Steel lintels can make drilling difficult, and some contain metal that will blunt a masonry bit.
- Plaster over brick: good for fixings.
- Plasterboard on timber: needs cavity fixings or screws into the timber.
- Cables: especially in modern homes with downlights or switches nearby.
See how to find studs, pipes and cables before drilling.
Fitting steps
- Mark the centre of the window and measure each end bracket position at equal distances.
- Use a spirit level to draw a level line across the wall.
- Hold a bracket in place and mark the screw holes.
- Drill the holes with a bit matching your plugs.
- Fit plugs and screw on the end brackets, then add the centre bracket.
- Slide the rings onto the pole, then lay the pole in the brackets and tighten the grub screws.
- Attach finials and hang the curtains.
Make sure the pole is level
Use a spirit level on the pole before tightening, and check again after the curtains are hung.
Choosing fixings
- Brick or block: masonry plugs and screws, ideally longer ones for heavy curtains.
- Timber lintel: screws directly into the timber.
- Plasterboard: heavy-duty toggles, or screws into studs. Fixing shelves to plasterboard, brick and stud walls describes the options.
- Metal lintel: use appropriate bits or pick a different position.
Tips
- Use rings that glide easily so you do not drag on the brackets.
- Install brackets before painting around them if possible.
- If you are fitting blinds as well, plan them together; see measuring for blinds and curtains.
Common mistakes
- Using only two brackets on a long pole.
- Drilling into a lintel without checking.
- Fitting too close to the ceiling for curtains that need to clear a radiator or sill.
- Forgetting that heavy curtains pull outward on the brackets.
A worked example: a 2 m window with a pole
For a window 1.2 m wide, a pole of about 1.8 to 2.0 m lets curtains sit clear of the glass when open. Fit brackets roughly 10 to 15 cm out from each side of the window frame, and about 10 to 15 cm above it (or higher to make the ceiling look taller). With a pole longer than about 1.5 m, add a centre bracket. Mark with a level, check for cables above the window, and drill.
Fixings by wall
| Wall | Fixing |
|---|---|
| Brick above lintel | Standard plug and long screw |
| Plasterboard | Rated cavity fixing, or move to a stud |
| Timber lintel | Screw into timber, pilot first |
| Concrete lintel | Hammer drill and masonry fixing |
Common mistakes
- Placing brackets over a lintel without checking there is solid material behind.
- Skipping the centre support, so the pole bows over time.
- Choosing brackets that are not rated for heavy lined curtains.
- Forgetting the finial or end cap clearance on the side.
Heavy curtains
Lined or interlined curtains can weigh several kilograms. Choose a thicker pole, closer bracket spacing and stronger fixings, and think about a track instead. For marking tips see how to level and measure before fixing.
Working at height
Use a stable stepladder rather than a chair, keep three points of contact where possible, and ask someone to hold the pole while you fit the end brackets. A pencil mark on the wall for the finials and a spare pair of hands for the last bracket save awkward balancing.
Curtain rings and heading types
Eyelet curtains slide on a pole easily, pencil pleat heading needs rings and hooks, and some tab-top designs hang directly. Check the curtain's heading before you buy a pole so the rings fit the diameter.
Frequently asked questions
How far above the window should a curtain pole go?
Around 10 to 15 cm above the frame is a common starting point, or higher if you want to make the window look taller.
Do I need a centre bracket?
Usually for poles wider than about 1.2 to 1.5 metres, or with heavy curtains. Follow the product guidance, and add support if the pole bows.
Can I fit a pole into plasterboard?
Yes, with strong cavity fixings or into studs, but heavy curtains need extra care because the pull is constant.