How to Paint uPVC Windows and Doors Step by Step
Learn how to clean, key, prime and paint uPVC window frames and doors for a colour change, including weather timing, masking and aftercare.
Painting uPVC is a popular way to change tired white frames to anthracite, black or another colour without replacing the windows. Done well, it can transform the look of a house. Done badly, it peels. The difference is almost entirely in preparation and product choice.
Is your uPVC suitable?
Painting works best when:
- Frames are structurally sound, with intact seals and no cracks
- The surface is clean and not badly degraded or chalky
- You choose a paint made for uPVC and for exterior use
If frames are warped, misted or failing, painting will not solve those problems.
Check any restrictions
Properties in conservation areas, listed buildings, leasehold flats and some estates may have rules about changing external colours. Check your lease or with your local authority before starting.
What you need
- Degreasing cleaner
- Scouring pad or fine sandpaper
- Masking tape and masking film
- uPVC primer
- Flexible exterior paint designed for plastics
- Fine foam roller and small brushes
- Dust sheets and clean cloths
Choosing the day
Pick dry, mild weather with no rain forecast for the drying period, and avoid direct hot sun on the frames, which makes paint dry too fast. Check the temperature range on the tin.
Step by step
1. Clean thoroughly
Wash frames with a suitable cleaner and rinse well. Paint will not stick to dirt, wax or oils. Let the frames dry completely.
2. Key the surface
Lightly abrade the surface with a scouring pad or fine sandpaper. You want a uniformly dull finish, not deep scratches. Wipe away dust with a clean cloth.
3. Mask
Tape off glass, rubber seals, handles, hinges and surrounding walls. Cover the glass with masking film if needed. Remove handles where possible.
4. Prime
Apply a thin, even coat of uPVC primer, following drying times. Do not skip this step even if the paint says it is self-priming without checking the manufacturer's instructions.
5. Paint
Apply thin coats with a fine roller or brush, working in logical order and keeping a wet edge. Two coats are common, with the drying time between them recommended on the tin. Thin coats reduce drips and dry harder.
6. Remove masking
Take tape off while the paint is still slightly tacky, pulling at an angle away from the freshly painted edge.
7. Allow to cure
Keep windows closed gently, and avoid cleaning or slamming. Paint can feel dry before it is fully cured, and early closing against seals can stick. Follow the tin for cure times. See paint drying and recoating times.
Common mistakes
- Painting dirty frames
- Using ordinary gloss that cracks as plastic expands and contracts
- Painting seals shut
- Applying thick coats
- Painting in cold, damp or very hot conditions
- Painting inside surfaces with the wrong product
Aftercare
Wash gently with a mild detergent and soft cloth, avoiding abrasive cleaners. Handles and contact points wear first, and a small pot of paint is useful for touch-ups.
When to call a professional
For many windows, conservatories, high access or if you want a sprayed finish, a specialist may be quicker and give a more even result. Costs are discussed in cost to paint uPVC windows and doors. When you send a request on Compito, include photos of each elevation and the number of frames so providers can price access and masking accurately.
Choosing the paint system
Standard wood paint is not designed to flex with plastic, which expands and contracts with temperature. Look for a paint specified for uPVC or plastics, with a matching primer if recommended, and check it is rated for exterior use. Satin finishes are popular because they hide fine imperfections better than gloss, but follow the colour range and finish the manufacturer offers.
Colours, heat and dark shades
Dark colours absorb more heat than white, and uPVC can soften or warp if it gets too hot. Some paints are made with heat-reflective pigments for exactly this reason. If your frames face south or catch strong afternoon sun, ask the supplier whether a chosen dark shade is suitable, and consider a lighter grey or a heat-reflective version. This is a good point to put to a decorator as well.
A realistic plan for a typical house
For a three-bed house with around eight windows and two doors, a competent DIYer might need:
- One day for cleaning, keying and masking all frames.
- A second day for primer and the first coat, working one elevation at a time.
- A third day for the second coat and removal of masking.
- A week or more of gentle use before the paint is fully hard.
Working on one elevation at a time also means the house is never fully exposed to rain or left unlocked.
Details people forget
- Remove or tape over trickle vents, so they still open.
- Wipe and dry the sill and any drip grooves, which hold dirt.
- Use a thin brush for the edge where the frame meets the glass.
- Check that locks, handles and hinges are masked or removed, and cleaned of paint before reassembly.
- Open windows a little, but not fully, while the paint cures.
When it is not worth painting
Frames with failed seals, fogging between panes, cracks, heat distortion or loose hinges are better replaced or repaired first. Paint will not hide those faults, and may draw attention to them. Leasehold flats and shared buildings can also have rules about external appearance, so check before buying anything.
Frequently asked questions
Can I paint uPVC in winter?
It is usually best to avoid it. Low temperatures and damp air make adhesion and curing unreliable. Check the manufacturer's minimum temperature.
How long will painted uPVC last?
It depends on prep, product, aspect and wear. Well-prepared surfaces in sheltered locations tend to last longer, and touch-ups can extend life.
Do I need to paint the inside as well?
Not necessarily. Many people only paint the outside, leaving the inside white, though the frame edges visible when open should be considered.
Does painted uPVC need to be repainted regularly?
It depends on exposure and wear. Well-prepared frames often stay in good condition for several years, with touch-ups at handles and corners where wear shows first. South-facing and exposed elevations tend to need attention sooner.