Lining Paper: When and How to Use It Before Decorating
What lining paper does, when it is worth fitting under paint or wallpaper, how it is hung, and common problems such as seams, bubbles and shrinkage.
Lining paper is a plain, blank paper hung on walls and ceilings before painting or wallpapering. It acts as a buffer between a less-than-perfect surface and your final decoration, giving a smoother, more uniform base.
What lining paper does
- Smooths minor surface irregularities, such as light texture or small hairline cracks
- Provides a consistent, absorbent base so paint or paper behaves evenly
- Reduces the chance of seams or pattern from the wall showing through thin wallpaper
- Makes later removal of the top layer easier, since the liner can stay in place
- Helps bridge across tiny movement cracks in old plaster
It does not fix serious problems. Damp, large cracks or loose plaster need to be addressed before lining.
When it is worth using
Under wallpaper
Lining is often recommended under wallpaper, particularly on old, uneven or patched walls, or under thin or light-coloured papers. Hung crossways, with joins offset from those of the wallpaper, it creates a smoother surface and reduces visible seams.
Under paint
Lining paper can be painted directly, which is useful on old plaster with fine cracking or uneven finishes, or where re-skimming is not justified. Some older homes have walls that never look quite right with paint alone.
When you might skip it
- On flat, sound plaster in good condition
- If you are using thick, forgiving papers or textured vinyl
- If the walls are slightly damp, where lining paper may not help and could trap moisture
Weights and types
Lining paper comes in different grades, often described by weight, such as 800, 1000, 1200, 1400 and 1700 grade. Heavier grades hide more irregularities but are harder to hang. A lighter grade often suits good walls under wallpaper; a heavier grade suits rougher walls. Ask your decorator which they recommend for your walls.
How it is hung
- Prepare the wall. Fill, sand and clean as normal. See filling and sanding walls.
- Size the surface. Seal bare plaster with a coat of size or diluted paste so the paper does not dry too fast.
- Cut lengths. Allow a little extra at top and bottom.
- Paste and soak. Paste the paper, fold it and allow it to soak for the time recommended, so it expands before hanging.
- Hang horizontally. Many decorators hang liner horizontally, so the joins do not sit on top of the vertical seams of the wallpaper.
- Butt joints. Edges are butted together without overlapping.
- Trim. Cut neatly at ceiling and skirting.
- Let it dry fully. Wait a day or more before painting or papering.
Common problems
- Bubbles. Caused by uneven pasting or trapped air. Often disappear as the paper dries; stubborn ones can be cut and repasted.
- Overlapping or gaping seams. Poor hanging or shrinkage.
- Lifting edges. Usually inadequate paste or poorly prepared walls.
- Shadowing. Dark walls can show through a thin liner.
Cost and timing
Lining adds labour time and materials. For a room, it can add around a day, and it may increase the quote. Ask whether it is included. See cost to wallpaper a room for how it affects the price.
Can you paint lining paper?
Yes, after it is dry. A mist coat can help seal it, particularly with absorbent grades. See mist coating.
Choosing a grade: a quick guide
| Grade | Typical use | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 800 to 1000 | Good, flat walls under thin paper | Easiest to hang |
| 1200 to 1400 | Slightly uneven walls, general use | Good all-rounder |
| 1700 and above | Rough or cracked plaster | Heavy and harder to hang cleanly |
If the walls are badly uneven, lining paper only softens the problem. Re-skimming or filling and sanding may be a better route.
Crosslining and straight lining
Crosslining means hanging the liner horizontally, so its joins sit at different positions from those of the final wallpaper. It is often used under wallpaper to avoid ghost seams. Straight lining means hanging it vertically, which is common when the liner will be painted and the joins are not a concern. Which suits you depends on the wall and the finish.
Worked example
A bedroom with old, slightly textured plaster and some hairline cracks is to be painted in a mid-tone. The decorator proposes 1200 grade lining paper hung horizontally, left to dry for a day or two, then painted with two coats of matt. The advantage is a smooth, even base that would otherwise need re-skimming. The cost is extra labour for the lining stage and a longer job.
Things that go wrong
- Hanging onto dusty or powdery walls. Paper will not bond. Size and clean first.
- Overlapping seams. Can show through paint; use butt joins.
- Heavy use of paste. Soggy paper tears and stretches.
- Painting too soon. Trapped moisture causes bubbles and shadowing.
When to ask for professional help
Ceilings, stairwells, alcoves and bay windows are much harder to line than flat walls, because the paper is awkward to handle and joins are more visible. A decorator will have tools and techniques for this, and the extra cost can be justified. If you want to see how lining fits into quotes, see how to compare decorating quotes.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need lining paper under all wallpaper?
No. It is most useful on uneven walls or under thinner papers. On smooth, well-prepared walls, many papers hang well without it.
Can lining paper hide cracks?
Fine hairlines, yes, to a degree. Larger or recurring cracks may reappear and should be repaired first.
Is it harder to remove later?
Usually not. If the liner is well adhered, it can often stay and act as a base for the next decoration.
Can I use lining paper on ceilings?
Yes, and it is often used to smooth old, textured or cracked ceilings before painting. Ceilings are harder to hang, so many people leave them to a decorator.