Appliance Running Costs in the UK: How to Estimate Yours
Learn how to estimate what washing machines, fridges, ovens and dryers cost to run, and which habits make the biggest difference to your bills.
Appliance running costs are easier to estimate than most people think. You do not need special equipment, just the power rating, how long the appliance runs and your electricity unit price. This guide gives you the method and points to the habits that save the most.
The basic calculation
Electricity is billed in kilowatt hours (kWh). To estimate the cost of one use:
- Find the power in watts on the rating label.
- Divide by 1,000 to get kilowatts.
- Multiply by the hours the appliance runs.
- Multiply the kWh by your unit rate in pence, which is on your bill or in your supplier app.
For example, a 2,000 W appliance running for one hour uses 2 kWh. At a unit price of, say, 25p per kWh, that is about 50p. Your tariff will differ, so use your own figure.
Remember that appliances rarely run at full power
A washing machine only draws its highest power while heating water. An oven cycles its elements on and off. The label gives a maximum, so treat the result as an upper estimate unless the appliance publishes a per-cycle consumption figure.
Which appliances cost most to run
Appliances that generate heat tend to be the costly ones:
- Tumble dryers often use far more energy per load than washing machines, particularly older vented models.
- Ovens and hobs use a lot of energy, but only while cooking.
- Dishwashers and washing machines cost more at high temperatures.
- Fridges and freezers use modest power but run constantly, so the total adds up across a year.
Reading energy labels
Energy ratings let you compare similar appliances. A better rating usually means lower running cost over its life, though a more efficient model often costs more to buy. When comparing, look at the stated annual or per-cycle consumption rather than just the letter. Compare machines of the same size and capacity, because a large appliance with a good rating can still use more than a small one with a slightly lower rating.
Habits that save money
| Habit | Why it helps |
|---|---|
| Wash at lower temperatures | Heating water is the main energy cost |
| Run full loads | Fewer cycles for the same laundry |
| Use eco programmes | Longer but typically use less energy |
| Keep fridge seals clean | A good seal prevents cold air escaping |
| Clean dryer filters each use | Airflow keeps drying times shorter |
| Defrost freezers regularly | Ice build-up makes them work harder |
Maintenance affects cost
A blocked dryer vent, a scaled-up dishwasher heater or a furry condenser all make an appliance work harder. Keeping things clean often pays back quickly, and our guide on what to check when a fridge is not cooling shows the checks that also improve efficiency.
When running costs justify replacing
If an old fridge-freezer is noticeably less efficient than a modern one, the saving can offset part of the purchase price over several years. Weigh this alongside repair cost and age, using our repair or replace rule of thumb. Avoid assuming savings, though. Work out your own numbers rather than relying on headline claims, and remember that a perfectly working appliance has an environmental cost to replace too.
Worked examples
Using a unit price of 25p per kWh purely for illustration:
| Item | Power and use | Rough cost |
|---|---|---|
| Kettle | 3 kW for 3 minutes | about 4p |
| Oven | 2 kW average over 1 hour | about 50p |
| Tumble dryer | 2.5 kW for 1.5 hours | about 94p |
| Fridge-freezer | around 100 W average, 24 hours | about 60p a day |
Two points stand out. A single short use of a high-power item is often small, whereas a modest appliance that runs all day can cost more over a month. Your own unit price, and the actual duty cycle of each device, will change these numbers, so substitute your own figures from your bill.
Finding the real consumption
If you want better than an estimate, a plug-in energy monitor between the appliance and the socket shows actual use over days. It is a cheap way to check a suspected old fridge or a dehumidifier left running. Only use it with a socket that is in good condition, and never daisy-chain adaptors or extension leads on high-power items such as dryers or heaters.
Common mistakes
- Using the maximum wattage as if it were continuous consumption.
- Forgetting that standing charges are a separate part of the bill.
- Comparing a small appliance's label to a large one without allowing for capacity.
- Assuming a more expensive model always saves money.
Edge cases
- Time-of-use tariffs: if your supplier charges less overnight, delay-start on a washing machine or dishwasher may cost less. Check your tariff.
- Renters: you may not choose the appliances, but habits such as washing temperature are still in your control.
- Older homes with poor ventilation: a dryer or humidifier may add to damp, which has its own costs.
Frequently asked questions
How do I find my appliance's wattage?
It is usually on a rating plate inside the door, on the back or in the manual. It is shown in watts or kilowatts.
Do standby modes matter?
They use small amounts, but across several devices they add up over a year. Switching off at the socket where practical removes that load.
Is an eco programme really cheaper?
Usually it uses less energy, because it heats water less or for a shorter time, but it runs for longer. Check the published consumption if you want certainty.
Does a full freezer cost less to run?
A reasonably full freezer holds temperature better, but overpacking can block airflow. Aim for full but not crammed.
Is it cheaper to dry washing outdoors or on an airer?
Drying outdoors costs nothing in energy. Indoors on an airer is cheaper than a dryer but adds moisture to the home, so ventilate the room and consider a dehumidifier carefully.